Also, it dawned on me that everything you have seen and read up to this point up did not happen in simple, separate steps. There were multiple things happening at the same time. Especially after the body work was essentially completed.
Starting with the basics, the engine came with its original wiring harness. It also came with the original Viper car harness, ECM and PCM. ECM is the electronic control module and the PCM is the process control module. For us dummies and old people, Fuse Block and Computer. At some point I traded the ECM and body harness to a local performance salvage yard for Viper type parts I needed like the Viper adjustable clutch, brake and gas pedal assembly.
Online I found a VIPER Crate motor harness made by Chrysler. The difference between it and the stock harness is that it has a number of built in relays which block government mandated electronic functions for modern cars like Anti-Lock Braking (ABS) functions and built in car features but does allow the PCM to monitor and control the various engine functions. It came with a nearly fully size drawing, about seven feet long! Finding a place for the rather bulky relays and wire was difficult. Placing the PCM for accessibility and the trouble shooting plug in were problematic in that the dash was completely disassembled. Wiper motor, linkages, heaters, ducts and other wiring considerations had to be guesstimated but planned for.
If you can read, follow instructions and are not color blind you should be able to wire a car! For the car itself, there a number of systems and subsystems to consider. Also, before you start, what do you intend to add that wasn't in the original car? A few basics are: headlights, tail lights, interior lights, turn signals, ignition, starter, battery etc., etc. What do you intend to add? A/C, monster stereo, light bars???
There a few choices available to rewire a car. Two (2) of the most popular commercially available are Painless Wiring and Ron Francis Wiring. Both have one or more options. Their kits contain a fuse blocks either hard wired or loose wires you measure, cut, fit and connect.. They have fuse blocks rated for simple circuits, multi circuits, higher rated amperage and more fuses. Some have circuit breakers. Both seem to use General Motors wiring code and have each individual wire marked by color AND about every 8-12 inches printed on the wire is its function! ie. Headlight, Taillight, right turn signal etc. Both have have their supporters and detractors. I chose the Ron Francis brand; separate upgraded fuse block, individual wires and connectors.
The hardest parts of doing it was: Finding a good route or location; then having all the right wires in hand. Remember two (2) wires for left headlight, 2 for right, 2 for left turn etc plus ground. They add up quickly. They are flippy floppy like cooked spaghetti; requiring passage through body panels, grommets, and threading the wires into protective wire loom.
That wire loom cover IS A PAIN IN THE ASS!!! It looks really nice and professional when done. But.... As you thread the wires in they pop out at the first kink or bend. Taping them together in bundles helps a little. More buts... you can tape every foot or so. Then, if you forgot or add a system or circuit, GOOD LUCK! If you have everything clipped, tie wrapped or through panels it either comes out and start over or you try to cram it though. Then you get it stuck, bulged, lumpy or out pops everything! OR if you taped the loom closed you have to cut it open. FRUSTRATION!!!
Suggestion. Wherever possible use existing body/panel openings. You can buy body panel plugs and grommets of various sizes, some are already donuts or you can make them either using a knife or carefully using a drill bit, drill holes in them or make plugs. I did both. I even made plugs. I used sheet metal, drilling holes to fit the wire loom, and two layers of bicycle inner tube cut X slots and rubber cemented them in between the existing sheet metal and metal "frame" opening I made. I used number 6 or 8 sheet metal screws to hold everything in place. Getting the basics in took the better part of two years. Again, this was due to unheated garage and work schedules.
Remember, once the wires are run, the pieces, parts devices they connect to have to be there too. Then the proper connectors have to be put on the wire ends. If the parts aren't there yet, you coil the wires up until the parts can be installed.
Then come sub systems: Electric fan: relay box, direct fuse line power line, ground. Stereo system: 4 speakers-8 wires, radio-3 wires, sub woofer 2 wires. amp: 3 HD wires and fuse. headlights: 2 relays and separate lines for power. Horn: relay, 2 wires.
The IDIDIT steering column has a GM type wire plug and eight (8) wires. Each had to be connected from the Ron Francis system to the matching plug and then plugged into the steering column. That was ok, even easy... Just follow the instructions and color codes.
ALMOST everything worked EXCEPT the brake lights and all the dash gauges!!!!! And it turned out to be an EXPENSIVE except. The expensive part will be described in another chapter.
BUT it took months and waiting for winter to end so I could work on the car to figure that the internal GM type switch inside the steering column was defective and had to be replaced. It took a multiple phone calls to Ron Francis and IDIDIT to figure out why the brake lights would not work. I had to test the brake pedal light switch, all the attendant wiring, light bulbs, and sockets. The final solution was to pull the steering column, steering wheel, turn signal stem and other bits and pieces.
To do the replacement, I attached a stout "fish" wire to the eight switch wires and pulled, wiggled and jiggled out the defective switch. Then you attach the "fish" to the new wires and switch and pull, wiggle etc. back through the column. Once the wires are loose they were then plugged into their individual slots on the main plug. IDIDIT did supply the new switch and reasonably clear instructions along with an online video, no charge even though I had purchased the column two or three years earlier. It was just a pain in the ass to redo work already done then reinstall everything. The thing that was most upsetting was not knowing if what I had done would work until everything was done and tested.
Stupid is as stupid does! I failed to carefully read the gauge instructions and did not quite understand the wiring diagram drawings. I had to pull the dashboard out and rewire the gauges. I had failed to connect the ground wires to the correct terminal! They now all worked. One gauge played a role, or failed to play a role, in the expensive EXCEPT mentioned above.
Once we got the car on the road the SPAL electric radiator fan blew several fuses. I checked and rechecked everything. I got to the point where I was afraid to drive the car. I called the radiator supplier who installed the fan on the radiator. Then I called SPAL They are foreign owned and as is the case with many automotive suppliers, they have closed and consolidated their offices after the GM/Chrysler auto bankruptcies. I called and left several messages... They did return the call..... eventually. Their advice was go out to the car, look for the serial number and call them back when I find it. They did give me a direct dial number. They said it was black, molded in the black plastic. Turned out it was a printed label... Of course it was upside down. I had to get a mirror slip it into the space and use a flashlight to light the label. Called them back
Sou prize, sou prize!! Their written instructions were WRONG! They make no distinction in their instructions between regular duty and heavy duty fans. For a regular duty fan use a 30 amp fuse. That's all the instructions and drawing said. After I gave them a model number and serial number I was told my fan is HEAVY DUTY. HD fans require a 40 AMP fuse! Could have damaged the engine if I hadn't been alert and watching the temperature gauge which was now working. I shut down the car as the temperature went over 210!!! I stopped and as soon as I got out of the car I could hear that the fan wasn't running! I had included a tool box and spare fuses as part of a road kit. I pulled the fuse block cover and immediately saw the problem. All this happened before the calls of course, but I was able to nurse it home on a 30 amp fuse. As soon as I plugged in the new fuse it started.
I know! I know! I shouldn't have plugged in the new fuse without disconnecting the battery but when its 90 F, NERVOUS, away from home in a parking lot you do stupid things!
So much for colored spaghetti!
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