First step, get the necessary parts for the front brakes. First I went to CAR- PART.COM for local salvage parts and prices. When I found a power brake booster for a Dakota I went and pulled the unit complete with master cylinder, reservoir etc. All the local yards immediately remove the calipers for rebuild so back to the internet.
I found a pair of Dakota salvage calipers for $34.00, shipped free. Inquiring around, the local NAPA had rebuilt calipers including heavy duty pads, both guaranteed for life for $70.00 the pair. They also had a core charge (discount) of $25.00 per caliper with caliper exchange. I jumped at that! Two (2) rebuilt calipers and pads for a net of $20.00! They also had rotors on sale, again guaranteed for $29.00 each. Load me up. Also got the flexible lines and lock clips to hold them. I have to add with no front clip on, the work was rather simple. I would pay for that later. Read on.
The Dakota frame had majority of the brake line retainer clips and junction blocks, which were still held the brake lines, chopped and sealed. Using clothes line, I laid out the path of the front brake lines then took measurements for the brake lines. I could have gone cheap but I chose stainless lines. I called the two biggest sellers got the best price and placed my order. They come in a big tube and you bend to fit as you go. I did buy a tubing bender which was a great help.
I used a Dodge Viper manually adjustable pedal assembly installed where the DeSoto pedals would have been, utilizing all existing firewall holes and openings. I had to fabricate a box extension for the power brake booster to firewall connection to allow space for the clutch master cylinder hydraulic unit. Then I welded in carriage bolts to mount the booster. Good idea not so good on the welding as the torch had to fit through a small opening and a couple of the welds broke through the repeated course of assembly and disassemble. The bolts often flopped around and the hole was too small for my hand. Tape and a screwdriver helped with that. Then I used marine grade turn buckles for the clutch and brake connections to master cylinder connecting rods. Degreased the calipers, masked them and sprayed them red with caliper paint.
For the clutch master cylinder I used initially used a Ram SRT 1500 Viper unit. Fit like a glove behind the the Dakota power brake booster. Ran into grief with factory cylinder to slave booster cylinder in the transmission which will be covered in an addendum to MO MO MO Power.
The Dakota power brake booster and mastercylinder located in the upper right on the
firewall..
Semi hidden, but view-able, is the "spacer box" bolted to the the firewall which allowed me to use all the existing firewall holes as explained in the narrative.
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| Dodge Dakota front disc brake, caliper and flex line installed. Access was a snap with no front clip to contend with. |
With all Ford fittings on the rear end as described in Mo Mo Mo Power, I started looking for Ford rear disc brake kits or salvage. I found a Mustang racing rear drum to disc brake conversion kit on ebay. Price wasn't too bad. Also found the same kit through a small local Ford dealership for $65.00 dollars less. Owned by a local man, pro basketball player, they were sponsoring / owned a race car team. They were more than happy to sell the kit. Even offered instructions and tips for the install. The body to rear end flex hose coupling and junction were recommended by the hard line supplier. Again, degreased and painted the the calipers.
I had not yet removed the rotor protective coating.
When the time came for the front clip, the first pieces to go on were the inner fender/wheels. The passenger side went on great. The driver side inner fender was a an unanticipated goof up. The Dakota power brake booster is so large, the vacuum chamber completely blocked the inner wheel well. I had made no provision for such a large part! After a lot of frustration and may be a few choice words I laid a tape pattern on it and cut a LARGE opening to clear the body of the booster. After several trial and error fittings and cuttings, it fit. The multiple curves and sloped wheel well drove me craaaazy! Then I had to fabricate, paint and coat a "box" that had to be shallow enough to the clear the wheel and tire in the wheel well. The "box" is attached by heavy duty sheet metal screws. Just in case I made a provision for a small drain hole. I used screws as welding would have required a repaint.
The inner fender/wheel well showing the "box" and wheel/ tire proximity. UGLY, but can't be seen with the fender on.
When the front clip was finally complete and everything was in place to start the motor I ran the necessary hose from the manifold to the brake booster. Now it was time to fill the brake lines and bleed them. I started from the passenger side rear, the usual starting point farthest from the master cylinder. I have a small hand brake bleeder kit. I started the usual pumping and squeezing and squeezing and squeezing!!! Little to no fluid. I worked for what seemed like for ever. Finally started the engine and got my wife to pump the pedal still almost nothing. Moved to the driver side near nothing. Disconnect lines and blew them out. Restarted the whole process. Nothing! Started researching and calling friends. Figured out two problems.
The master cylinder was defective. More NAPA. Still no progress but SOME fluid. More calls and research. Can't remember who or where but....... I had applied logic when hooking up the brake lines to the master cylinder. Front brakes to the front hole, rear line to the rear hole. NOPE!!!! For what ever reason the front brakes connect to the rear hole and the rears connect to the front hole!!! To make matters worse they have different fittings so I had to rebend and reroute the lines to the first junction block. Then everything worked.
To date the brakes have worked as expected. Pedal pressure is not excessive feel is good. Haven't had to make any emergency stops, but have tested them a bit to be sure. The red brake caliper paint isn't worth a crap. Its peeling and flaking.
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