FRAMED

In the five plus years it took to get to this point I had investigated what to do with front and rear brakes, a modern suspension and steering including power steering. During the course of the deconstruction of both cars we also found that the "good car" had been given a back yard repair. Cheap angle iron was welded top and bottom to the driver side frame rail just behind the rear wheel arch. 

At least part of the solution was sitting right in front of me. My Dodge Dakota pickup truck. No, I did not cut up my truck! I earlier mentioned many hotrod builders were using S-10 and Ranger truck frames and suspensions, as well as Mustang II front subs to upgrade their builds with more modern components and more readily available parts.

I crawled under my truck many times dreaming, measuring and figuring and just as many times measuring the DeSoto frame. As near as I could measure, a Dakota front sub would fit within a fraction of an inch.

I sort of half searched leaving my name and needs at a number of junkyards. After the body became viable I found a 2000 Dodge Dakota frame suitable for our project. The yard cut the frame extra long at my direction and I hauled it home. The sub-frame included the frame, front suspension and power steering rack and pinion. It did not include the disc brake components. All Dodge Dakotas used a six (6) bolt wheel pattern. It just happened that I had spiked snow tires and wheels for my truck.

Somewhere along the line and researching, I also found a few interesting facts about the Viper and Dodge Dakota relationship. It seems that Chrysler used parts from from existing car and truck lines to build the early Vipers. Depending on the source, some suspension, brake, spindle and wheel parts were used from the Dodge Dakota Truck line.

Knowing my welding skills and my 130 volt welder capabilities on heavy metal, I decided it would be best to seek outside help for the modifications. I found a local shop with many years of racing chassis repair and fabrication who was willing to under take the work. I gave him my sketches and dimensions and towed the frame from the parts car to his shop along with the "sub". I used a homemade tow-bar set up to bolt up to the bumper bracket frame horns.

The shop let me watch, but no pictures. First, he created a level support frame shaped like a capital "I". The top and bottom wings of the "I" caught the frame and acted as a table. "Devil's Horns" were added at the top of the "I" catching the DeSoto frame horns. We dropped the rear end so there be no imbalance when the front was cut. Then we measured everything making sure the wheel base would be correct. After layout, we decided that the Dakota section would best match up the DeSoto frame just about at the fire wall. Both frames were cut to length and positioned on the table

This location forced the removal of the transmission and frame support cross member. The cuts were made and the sections ground, joined, clamped, butted together and TIG welded. The inside frame rail weld was ground flat. For additional strength, a diamond shaped plate was heated, hammered to shape and overlaid (fish-plated) on the inside frame rail over the weld and TIG welded in. With the removal of the structural cross member we decided to add an X member of smaller heavy square steel tube with a drive shaft loop to maintain frame strength. A modified S piece was also added on the underside of the frame rails following the DeSoto/Dakota frame curve for reinforcement.

The radiator core support was removed from the DeSoto frame and welded into position on the Dakota frame. Lastly, the Dakota frame "horns" where the bumper brackets would attach were "Z" cut to avoid structure and provide strength and the corresponding DeSoto "horns" were cut to match and welded into place  

 Seen leaning against the garage wall is the homemade draw bar I used to tow the car frame to and from the shop. The modified frame is lifted for initial cleaning and temporary rust proofing, The frame alterations were done the summer of '06. I am the person pointing out features of the rotisserie to my wife's brother-in-law.






What is left of the parts car and the frame. Note: I have not yet removed the A frames from firewall when this picture was taken.

 The driver side frame joint. We were all taken by surprise at how well the Dakota frame matched up to the DeSoto frame. Note the forward most body mount "ear."

 Looking carefully, you can see the diamond plate reinforcement on the joint. This was after primer was applied to the frame. Looking just to the left of the rotisserie leg two (2) large holes are visible. That is the radiator core support pad.
The shot also shows some of the Dakota suspension and steering rack.

Looking from underneath to the passenger side, suspension components, steering rack and etc. Center left, on top of the cross member, the underside of the radiator core support with one bolt hole visible.

This picture, taken at a later date, shows the body mounted on the modified and painted frame. Shown is the transmission support cross piece and the permanent X cross member and drive shaft loop.














Later on I towed the frame to the sandblasters using the draw bar. Everybody asks me why a silver frame. Remember what I said about painting the '88 Sable? I Por 15'd the frame after the sandblasting and had a quart of left over silver poly from the Sable.... silver frame!!